Great location, good food

Published November 23, 2006 5:00am EST



Nick?s Fish House?s convenient location ? right off Interstate 95 on exit 54 ? is its biggest plus.

Since its opening two years ago, this seafood-centric destination has been quite popular. In the summer, the huge deck is overrun with a rowdy young college crowd. On game day, it?s a zoo depending who?s playing, pretty much any time of year. Thankfully for those preferring not to be jostled when they eat, almost any other time, this place is the perfect place for a quiet dinner on the waterfront, or a weekend or weekday lunch.

We visited on a quiet Sunday night, with friends from White Marsh and Laurel. We started with catfish fingers ($8.95) fried catfish strips you dip in Nick?s dipping sauce ? addictive. A special oxtail soup was featured ($6.75), and, though rustic was also very good. We also shared a yummy appetizer portion of ribs ($9.95).

The seafood platter ($23) featuring a 6-ounce crab cake accompanied by three scallops, three jumbo gulf shrimp, two oysters and whitefish was tasty, not to mention a great way to taste a bit of several of their extensive seafood offerings all at once. One seafood-shy friend ordered chicken pot pie ($9.95), which turned out to be more comforting than outstanding, yet also quite enjoyable. Needing some vegetables, we ordered a Popeye pizza ($10) with tomatoes, cheese and spinach, and that was also good.

For dessert, we shared a piece of guiltily great chocolate cake ($4.95). Even with a few of us, we couldn?t finish it ? it was so rich. The desserts change regularly and are a combination of in house and not.

The wine list is well … this is a Fish House, so don?t get your hopes too high. No exciting finds, but we can live with that given the setting. Most of the menu works better with beer anyway.

If you go

Nick?s Fish House, 2600 Insulator Drive, Baltimore; 410-FISH123

» Hours: Open daily

» Dress: Casual to a bit dressier

» Credit Cards: Yes

» Kid friendly: Yes

» Liquor license: Yes

» Parking: Lot

» Wheelchair accessible: Yes

» Smoking: Smoking and nonsmoking