If variety is the spice of life, then our proverbial spice rack is overflowing. Each year we get wine samples from so many producers throughout the grape-growing world that we had to install a separate wine rack just to keep track of them.
Many of the samples are good. Many of them are not so good. (Yes, we suffer for our art.) But the really remarkable thing about tasting so many different wines is the opportunity to try a number of different grape varietals that aren’t in the mainstream.
Here are a few varietals we encourage you to experiment with at your next dinner party. For fun, serve them blind (with the label concealed) and see whether your guests have a guess. Retail prices are approximate.
Alicante Bouschet
A hearty grape, originally from southern France, Alicante Bouschet gained notorious popularity throughout the U.S. during prohibition. Its thick skin allowed it to hold up to shipping to home winemakers across the country. Although it is now grown in South Africa, Italy and Spain, today it is used mostly as a blending grape for wines from California’s San Joaquin Valley wines and in Port wines from Portugal.
2001 Valhalla Vineyards Alicante Bouschet, Roanoke, Va. ($18; available directly from the vineyard)
Right in our own backyard, Valhalla Vineyards makes an inky black wine with scents of ripe plums and blackberries on the aromatic nose. Flavors of plums, blackberry liqueur, cedar and tobacco are supported on a medium body with a round, full finish.
Charbono
This grape has a mysterious pedigree, with guesses that its lineage is linked to the dolcetto grape of Italy as well as to charbonneau from France. Despite its origins, in the proper hands it makes a wine whose dark and brooding fruit is kept in check by firm tannins.
2005 Turley Wine Cellars Charbono, Tofanelli Vineyard, Napa, Calif. ($47 at MacArthur Beverages in D.C.)
This wine has spicy notes of black cherry and sage on the nose with full-bodied flavors of blueberries, cherries and dusty earth in the mouth. Hints of coffee and dark chocolate blend in on the earthy finish.
Dornfelder
Created in the mid-20th century as a blending grape for German red wines, Dornfelder is gaining popularity on its own in Germany and abroad as a charming, medium-bodied, food-friendly wine. Serve it slightly chilled with roast chicken as a novel alternative to white wine.
2005 Weingut Anselmann Dornfelder Trocken, Pfalz, Germany ($13 at Total Wine & More, McLean, Va.)
Floral aromas of cherry and violets fill the glass while delicate notes of cherry, red raspberry and strawberry play out on the smooth frame. The texture and finish remind me of a light-styled pinot noir.
Gruner Veltliner
This popular Austrian varietal has developed quite a loyal following here in the States over the past couple of years. It’s a food-friendly wine that seems to be equal parts gewürztraminer, riesling and sauvignon blanc, with bright, fresh white fruit flavors enhanced by crisp acidity. It makes a wonderful summertime aperitif or a great companion to shellfish.
2004 Steininger Gruner Veltliner Grand Gru, Kamptal, Austria ($20 at The Vineyard and Finewine.com, both in McLean)
Aromatic nose of acacia and crushed stones lead to fresh flavors of tropical fruits, peach and pear flavors in the mouth. Lemon/lime notes accent the crisp, clean finish.
Pinot Meunier
Known mostly as a blending grape for champagne, this robust pinot noir mutation has higher natural acidity and brighter fruit flavors than its parent, providing depth and richness that can stand up to spicier fare.
2003 Domaine Chandon Pinot Meunier, Napa Valley, Calif. ($27 at Total Wine and More in McLean)
Interesting scents of smoked meats and strawberry jam are reminiscent of a Burgundian pinot noir. Vivid flavors of ripe red cherry, raspberry and strawberry bathe the tongue on a medium-bodied frame. Sweet tannins round out the supple finish.
Vidal Blanc
Often referred to simply as vidal, this white varietal is popular in Canada where it’s used to produce wonderful late-harvest sweet wines and “ice” wines. Once referred to as a poor man’s Sauternes, vidal wines are rich, sweet and in demand.
2003 Jackson Triggs Vidal Ice Wine Niagara Peninsula, Canada ($22/half bottle at Calvert Woodley in D.C.)
Beautiful, rich flavors of apricot, mango and tangerine caress and coat the tongue. The abundant acidity complements the hefty residual sugar to provide balance and body. It would make a wonderful companion with a pear tart.
Zweigelt
In 1922, Dr. Fritz Zweigelt developed a red wine varietal that would thrive in the cooler climate and richer soils of his native Austria. It’s a very practical wine that complements a wide variety of dishes, from escargot to beef Wellington.
2004 Hofkellerei Des Fursten Von Liechtenstein Clos Domaine Zweigelt, Wilfersdorf, Austria ($19 at Rodman’s and Paul’s of Chevy Chase, both in D.C.)
Truly a noble wine, it is produced by the Court-Winery of the Prince of Liechtenstein for use in the Royal Court. Fortunately, a few cases make it to Washington. Soft, appealing flavors of cherry and red berry play on the front of the palate while notes of pepper and cedar glide in on the mild finish.
Do you have a favorite royalty of wine? E-mail me at [email protected].
