Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall could easily be mistaken by the unfamiliar tourist for a religious shrine of preeminent sanctity. Massive and tastefully ornate, it sits within a sprawling square of stone and is flanked by two temple-like assembly halls. Within its main chamber sits a 10-meter statue of the titular Chiang, Taiwan's first president. I saw the hall in all its glory for the first time when I was flown to Taipei on a press junket alongside journalists from 12 other nations. We were there to learn about every facet of the island, from military preparedness to diplomatic relations, historical origins to visions of the future. The other journalists and I had been brought to the memorial hall by our government handlers to witness the famous changing of the guard ceremony that has been conducted...