Braving a severe economic downturn, celebrity chef Michael Mina opened his first District eatery, Bourbon Steak, at the Georgetown Four Seasons last month. And just last night, I attended the press dinner (thanks to publicist Heather Freeman) in which the kitchen showed off its best offerings-not only steak but also a butter-poached lobster pot pie, Cape Breton oysters, Hamachi sliced paper-thin, and duck fat fries. That’s right, duck fat. The fries were definitely a highlight (and if you are daring, here is the recipe)-crisp and savory-as well as the Hudson Valley pressed foie gras prepared with pink salt, sinfully rich and creamy in texture. Bourbon Steak also serves a dessert that is a homage to an Almond Joy candy bar. And their wine list even features Chartogne-Taillet ($125), one of the finest champagnes I’ve ever had. Despite a chilly rain and the abovementioned hard times, the restaurant was teeming with regulars, and the bar was packed to the gills. (Citronelle’s Michel Richard and Todd English were also on hand.) Its grand opening came at the same time the Four Seasons successfully underwent a $40 million renovation-a definite improvement. But can a steakhouse survive in a town already glutted with steakhouses (not all of them good) and at a time when most people are trying to save money? It all depends. Washington has seen its share of steak joints come and go (Maloney & Porcelli, Nick & Stef’s, Fran O’Brien’s, Angelo & Maxie’s, Jimmy’s on K). Competition is fierce. But the guests at my table were quick to remind me about the importance of location-particularly a place located in a four-star hotel. “When celebrities and heads of state come to town, they’re staying here,” said one food writer. They’d like to eat somewhere nearby and somewhere classy, she pointed out. Not that customers will be ordering Iranian Osetra caviar or Kobe beef every time. They can just have a simple bone-in ribeye for around $40-about average compared with other steakhouses. And of course it doesn’t hurt when your owner is Michael Mina, who was kind enough to visit our table. I asked him how he and tennis star Andre Agassi joined forces to form the Mina Group. Mina met Agassi in San Francisco and they’ve been friends ever since. According to the chef, Agassi is as competitive in the kitchen as he is on the court, and apparently a pretty good cook (particularly steaks). But what if business is down at the Four Seasons itself? For the moment, at least, this doesn’t seem to be the case. And come inaugural week, every room is booked-including the 3,000 square-foot Royal Suite (with its bulletproof windows) which runs $15,000 a night, with a minimum of five nights required. Meaning someone is paying $75,000 to see Barack Obama probably from a distance of two miles away. I’m guessing it’s Jeffrey Katzenberg. I hope he brings his binoculars.
