Thanksgiving dinner is one of those traditions, like all family gatherings, that are regularly greeted with joy or dread, depending entirely on one’s attitude and tolerance. The proceedings generally proceed with greater joviality, or at least cordiality, when well-lubricated.
Obviously, alcohol is key. A wide variety of wines and cocktails make for wonderful accompaniments to various parts of the night’s proceedings. Here are a few suggestions to play with.
When it comes to pairing wines with your Thanksgiving meal, domestic American wines are fairly traditional. Obviously, there is nothing wrong with an imported wine, but this is an American holiday, and some of your guests might be rather particular. Some prefer white wine with turkey, like an oaky chardonnay or perhaps a dry riesling, while others go for a hearty flavorful red like syrah or zinfandel, or the feminine pinot noir. All might be excellent with your meal; just give it a few moments’ thought.
There is no “perfect” wine for this, as all such selections are necessarily subjective and personal. This year, for example, I had the good fortune of selecting my Thanksgiving wine based on a recent tasting in California’s Napa Valley. I visited Hagafen Cellars, a small, boutique family-owned-and-operated winery on Napa’s Silverado Trail. Although Hagafen Cellars produces only around 8,000 cases a year, their wines are available around the country and have been served many times in the White House.
My personal pick this Thanksgiving is the Hagafen Cabernet Sauvignon 2002. The wine is superb now. The tannins are soft and well-integrated into a gorgeous, complex structure of fruits and acids, with aromas and flavors of currants, black cherries, cranberries, blackberries, chocolate, cedar wood, black licorice and a distinct scent of eucalyptus leaves. This is delicate enough to support the white meat while enriching the dark meat and should dance brilliantly with the gravy, stuffing, mashed potatoes and cranberries.
Of course, wine isn’t, and shouldn’t be, your only alcoholic beverage. Consider, for example, an autumnal pre-dinner cocktail like the Orange Whiskey Sour: In a mixing glass filled at least 2/3 full of cold, hard cracked ice, shake together 2 ounces of bourbon (I prefer Maker’s Mark here, even though Wild Turkey sounds more appropriate), 2 ounces of fresh orange juice, 3 tablespoons of fresh lemon juice, and 1 teaspoon of sugar; shake the hell of out of it, then strain into a tall glass with fresh ice, rub the rim of the glass with the lemon wedge (you can also rim the glass with sugar margarita-style, according to your tastes), then garnish with an orange slice. This will whet your appetite and mellow your mood at the same time. If your family gatherings are torturous affairs, drink at least two before your meal.
If your prefer something heavy yet chilled with your meal, consider an Irish Stout Sangria (this has been modified from a recipe by Lucy Brennan, owner of Mint and 820 in Portland, Ore.): In a pre-chilled pint glass, pour 12 ounces of your favorite Irish stout such Guinness or Murphy’s (these come in 16-ounce cans), add 1/2 an ounce of simple syrup, allow this to settle, then add 1/2 ounce of ruby port, then stir gently, top with the last 4 ounces of Irish stout, and let settle for about 30 seconds, then garnish with a dusting of freshly grated nutmeg and, maybe, cinnamon.
Finally, you can close out the evening with some lovely mulled wine, an excellent warm, and warming, drink that is easy to concoct and even easier to drink. The word “mulled” is of uncertain origins, but is thought to hail from an obscure late 14th or early 15th century English dialect term for mixed or muddled. Drink too much of this potion, and the derivation will begin to have greater resonance.
Like all good mixology, making a good batch or brew of mulled wine is an exercise in creative balance. When wine is heated, but not boiled, it becomes more potent, and the primary flavors become more concentrated. The idea is to add other flavors that will help balance the primary flavors in the wine to produce a superior punch.
Here is a great starting recipe for mulled wine: boil together 7 ounces of water, 3 ounces of sugar, 1 thinly sliced lemon and 1 orange that has been spiked with cloves, then remove from the heat and add 1 bottle of fruity red wine (like a young merlot) and 1 stick of cinnamon; return to heat, and slowly simmer the mix, but do not allow this to boil; then strain into your serving glass and, if desired, decorate with a slice of mandarin orange or lime.
