Last week, we received an e-mail from John in McLean asking for a little advice on what to serve with his upcoming summer barbecue bash. His menu included seasonal fare such as barbecued ribs and pulled pork. He wrote, “The pulled pork will have a North Carolina vinegar sauce,” while the other dishes will include “a tomato based sauce.”
Of course, he will include all the classic side dishes: coleslaw, beans, potato and cornbread. And to top it off, he wants to serve “American wine.”
As we began to formulate a reply, it occurred to us that we had our own summer soirée to plan, so we thought that this would be an excellent opportunity to plan our own wine pairings while responding to John.
Retail prices are approximate.
She Said
I’m all for a traditional North Carolina barbecue, but the vinegar-based sauce for the pulled pork is a red flag when it comes to red wine. Fortunately, pork is a mild meat that plays well at both ends of the wine color spectrum, and the fattiness of the meat should be enough to bring wines with abundant acidity and a touch of residual sugar into focus. Therefore, my picks for the pulled pork run more along the lines of slightly off-dry whites that can tame the vinegar and quench on their own.
2005 Longshadow Winery, Poet’s Leap Riesling Columbia Valley, Wash. ($24)
Armin Diel, the world-renowned German riesling winemaster, uses Washington state fruit to craft this gorgeous riesling, featuring flavors of white fig, honeydew melon and ripe nectarine. Hints of apricots and minerals are the star on the long, unctuous finish.
2005 Chateau St. Michelle Eroica, Columbia Valley, Wash. ($25)
Another partnership between a world-famous winemaker, Dr. Loosen of Germany, and a Washington state winery, Chateau St. Michelle, produces a remarkable riesling with depth and balance. Lovely flavors of slightly sweet oranges, lemon zest and peaches combine to coat the palate while notes of wet stone are found on the clean finish.
2003 Martinelli Gewürztraminer, Russian River Valley, Calif. ($28)
Legendary winemaker Helen Turley crafts a drier-style Gewürztraminer, loaded with pretty scents of acacia and passion fruit. Wonderful ripe flavors of apricots, white nectarines and orange peel provide enough depth and structure to really showcase both the wine and the food.
2004 Elk Cove Ultima Riesling-Viognier-Gewür-traminer Blend, Willamette Valley, Ore. ($30)
This white blend makes is a great barbecue wine thanks to the honeyed flavors of apricot, peach and orange that dominate the palate and the abundant acidity that keeps the wine in balance and capable of cutting through the rich texture of the pork.
He Said
Damn the vinegar, full red ahead. When I think barbecue, I think zin, zin and zin. I really enjoy a big, spicy, red zinfandel with tomato-based sauces. The hefty red fruit flavorscan stand up to the natural acidity of the sauce, while the spicy tannins can enhance the underlying richness of the ribs. And you can’t get much more “American” than zinfandel.
2004 Dry Creek Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel, Sonoma, Calif. ($19)
A classic zinfandel, full of spicy black cherry and dark plum flavors. The smooth, well-balanced finish features more cherry fruit along with jammy blueberries and hints of vanilla.
2004 Armida Winery Zinfandel “PoiZin,” Sonoma, Calif. ($25)
Don’t let the skull and crossbones on the label throw you — this zin is pure magic. Ripe plum, blackberry and boysenberry fruit glide over the tongue, while the sweet tannins provide body and focus on the finish.
2004 Ravenswood Zinfandel Belloni Vineyard, Russian River, Calif. ($30)
An old-style “field blend” zinfandel, the traces of carignane, petite sirah and alicante bouschet give the wine character and balance. Prominent notes of blueberry and cherry glide over the tongue, while hints of clove and vanilla appear on the mellow finish.
2004 Seghesio Family Vineyards Zinfandel Cortina, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, Calif. ($34)
A big, spicy wine featuring loads of blackberry, dark plum and boysenberry flavors on the well-balanced frame. Notes of black pepper and vanilla come through loud and clear on the lively finish, where the soft tannins and abundant acidity provide great structure.
2004 Turley “Juvenile” Zinfandel, Lodi, Calif. ($43)
The cult-like status of this zinfandel makes it difficult to find, and for good reason. The incredible intensity of the rich blueberry and black cherry fruit built on a plush frame combine to provide a wine that not only has a great mouthfeel but also a wonderfully long, elegant finish.
So John, we hope this helps. We’ll be looking for our invitation in the mail.
