Don’t be meek with this Greek

Published November 22, 2006 5:00am EST



Mykonos must be doing something right. Not much more than a month old, the restaurant — admittedly the space is not that big — was packed for a recent weekday lunch.

Maybe it was the stars, maybe the location (formerly another restaurant), or maybe a combination, but more likely it was the food. Despite the restaurant’s Greek name, the menu offers enough variety in its dishes to appeal to most tastes, much of it pretty good.

Chicken wings ($5.95), chef salad ($6.95), steak and cheese sub ($6.45), B.L.T ($5.45), a 7-ounce Angus hamburger ($5.95), broiled salmon with lemon and dill sauce or crab cakes with tartar sauce (both $14.95) are some of the dishes aimed at non-adventurous eaters.

But for those who can abandon conventional, American-style semi-fast foods for a meal, remember this is a Greek restaurant and try some native dishes. Some — gyros and shish kebab, for example — probably will be familiar.

Start with a traditional Greek appetizer such as avgotaraho, a heaping plate of roe mixed with potato with drizzles of oil, lemon and minced onion, or an order of skordalia, a creamy mix of potato and garlic, both $4.95 and served with fresh, warm triangles of pita.

Other appetizers include spanakopita, a mix of spinach and feta baked in filo, or another popular dish, melitzanosalata, a mix of roasted eggplant, garlic and onion (both $5.75).

Among the Greek sandwiches, both the gyros — with huge slabs of lamb and beef — and the chicken souvlaki (both $6.95) come wrapped in a huge piece of warm pita with lettuce, tomato, onions and feta cheese to be drizzled with tszatiki (yogurt with cucumber and garlic) sauce are ample and not easy to eat, but well worth the mess.

Among the entrees, unless you want shish kebab, try the Mykonos Combination ($15.95), with mousaka (layered eggplant, ground beef and sliced potatoes topped with bechamel), pastichio (layered macaroni and beef topped with bechamel), soutzoukakia (Greek meat balls) and spanakopita for a sampling of the restaurant’s specialties.

Mykonos

Address: 1810 Michael Faraday Drive, Suite 11, Reston, Va.

Phone: 703-689-0600

Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays, 7:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Saturdays — closed Sundays

Credit cards: Major cards accepted