Until now. Looking like a diner designed by Motley CrŸe, the new Policy on 14th Street could have been teleported in from the Sunset Strip in Los Angeles.

The bigger surprise for this very un-D.C. space? That its owner, Omar Miskinyar, is a former software engineer at AOL and the chefs hail from the staid L’Auberge Chez Francois.

The Scene: High on the “cool” scale, but higher on the volume scale. Plenty of two-person booths set the stage for date night. Pendant lights glow with red filaments and the tin ceiling is lacquered to a shiny black, but the biggest statement comes from the red vinyl booths, which adds a burlesque element to the interior.

The Pour: A bit confusing is that an inventive cocktail list, a hop-head’s beer list of nearly 20 imported and micro-brew beers and the unexpected touch of nine unique teas are joined by a pedestrian wine list. While they get high marks for the 30-plus wines available by the glass, the selections leave much to be desired. Plus, you won’t find a single splurge bottle (the list tops out at $60). Stick to the cocktails É

The Taste: While the dŽcor is completely in contrast to the chef’s pedigree (his resume also includes Palena and the late Le Ralais), his cooking is not. Chef Brian Murphy consistently cranks out a diverse spread of small plates. Crab and mascarpone crepes give a new twist on our favorite local crustacean. Duck spring rolls were perfectly fried — not too oily, not too crunchy. Tempura-battered soft shell crabs were a seasonal treat, while herbed gnocchi give vegetarians something to coo over. Several of the meat dishes came out overcooked and dry, the exception being the grilled hangar steak paired with apple-jicama slaw. And small discs of diver scallops were overwhelmed by their black pepper crust.

The Touch: Servers here are pleasant and polite, the kind that you don’t mind striking up a conversation with. Trouble is, they tend to disappear for long stretches. It’s not unusual to wait 15 minutes for a dessert menu, or 10 for a check. The bar and kitchen aren’t helping them, either. On one visit, they were out of the first two wines we ordered, and part of our food order never made it to the table.

Don’t Miss: While it would be easy to pass over the red curried lentils, which sound more appropriate nestled among the menu’s six sides, this dish is a standout with its golden raisins and revelatory cauliflower dumplings.

Why You Won’t Go: Because it is LOUD. As the bar fills up later in the evening the din grows and grows, you may find yourself shouting at your dining companion. On weekends, request a table far away from the bar (which can crowd onto your table) if you hope to converse.

Why You Will Go: Because you prefer dancing and DJ music to dessert. The upstairs nightclub, splashed with graffiti art, is 14th Street’s newest hot spot.