When Robert F. Kennedy Jr. makes salad, there’s a certain ritual involved. First, he has to buy some organic vegetables. So the secretary of health and human services walks his staff, his security guards, a gaggle of camerapeople, and Secretary of Agriculture Brooke Rollins down the National Mall, past a golden tractor, over to a farmers market booth run by Foot of the Mountain Farm, specially picked by the Agriculture Department for its “regenerative agriculture” practices. As he glides under the tent, his guards and staffers form a circle and stand with their arms out wide so other marketgoers can’t snap up his produce first.